Around Town: Mumbai's burgeoning passion for Mexican food

*A variety of reasons have contributed to Mexican cuisine’s popularity among Indians, as seen by the expanding number of Mexican restaurants in Mumbai.*

Have you noticed a rise in the number of Mexican eateries in Mumbai?

You’re not alone.Last year, restaurateurs Vicky Singh and Rizwan Amlani opened Mezcalita, a Mexican restaurant and tequila bar on Veer Nariman Road, with bright colors inspired by the region’s vivid cantina tradition. In December, the Tham brothers Keenan and Ryan, along with Saamir Chandnani, debuted the vibrant Pompa on Bandra’s Linking Road. Chrome Hospitality, renowned for Gigi, has opened Lyla, a Mexican-Californian-inspired cocktail bar and restaurant.

What is it about Mexican food that appeals to Mumbai residents? It turned out to be a mix of circumstances.

A lesson on culinary culture

“If you look at any worldwide cuisine, Mexican maybe has more similarity with Indian food than any other,” says Singh, adding, “When it comes to flavor profile, sourness, acidity, and dairy are fundamental to Mexican cuisine.

To some extent, they serve as the foundation of Indian cuisine.” Singh must have a sense of déjà vu. In 2008, he opened Sanchos, which was recognized as Mumbai’s first freestanding Mexican restaurant. A Mexican chef was in charge of the kitchen, same like at Mezcalita.In terms of cuisine, Pablo Benitez, executive chef at Mezcalita and a professor of Mexican pre-Hispanic cuisine, emphasizes the gastronomic relationship between India and Mexico because they are positioned on the same geographical axis even if they are at opposite ends of the earth.

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He draws comparisons between the cuisines, saying, “When it comes to street food, Mexico has tostadas and India has sev puri.” Tacos are similar to bhaji and chapati; we stack them and consume them individually. Our burritos resemble your kathi rolls. We both use pestle and mortar. Noting that vegetarianism is prevalent in both food cultures, he emphasizes that both cuisines are distinguished by robust flavors and extensive use of spices. “Whether it’s cumin, coriander, or chilli powder, we love a good kick in our cuisine. Both cultures excel in making delicious appetizers, whether quesadillas and tamales or samosas and pakoras. “It’s all about the right balance of savory, spicy, and crunchy,” he says.

The wave isn’t new

While Mexican food is now receiving a lot of attention, it is far from new to the city’s culinary scene. Historians trace Mumbai’s first exposure with the food back to the 1980s, when the President Hotel held a pop-up. According to restaurateurs, in the early 2000s, two five-star hotels opened Mexican restaurants on their properties. Since then, several restaurants have developed, notably Poco Loco, which has built a reputation for delivering excellent Tex-Mex food, a fusion of Texan-American cuisine that includes nachos, burritos, tacos, enchiladas, and fajitas.

“Inherently, tacos, nachos, enchiladas, and burritos are familiar to Mumbai residents; they have long been a part of the gastronomic scene and will remain so. Many families in India have been making their own versions of these recipes at home,” says Keenan. Along with his brother Ryan, he is recognized for carrying on the family history and launching Asian cuisine businesses such as Koko and Foo.

Keenan’s decision to go into Mexican cuisine with Pompa was motivated by a perceived market vacuum. “We are in the business of giving experiences. “I wanted to provide an experience in which people could enjoy authentic Mexican food and cocktails in a welcoming environment,” he says. With fringe-adorned seats, walls covered in Mexican fabrics, and brilliant reds and greens accenting the design, Pompa takes diners to another planet while being firmly rooted in Mumbai.Mezcalita offers an equally immersive experience, incorporating the region’s vibrancy into its architectural aspects and recently hosting a traditional Mariachi band.

Lyla offers a somewhat different perspective. Lyla, with its elegant ambiance and food by chef Beena Noronha, specializes in Mexican-Californian gastronomy with a focus on ingredients. “This cuisine is quite popular and focuses on appreciating products such as avocado, mango, chili, and shellfish. I’m adopting a new approach, utilizing the same elements in unique ways. While the dish is real, it may not perfectly follow tradition. For example, we serve savory churros,” Noronha notes, stressing that she intends to avoid Tex-Mex food owing to market saturation.

Tequila in and cactus out.

It’s also worth noting that Mexican cuisine is frequently served with tequila, which is becoming increasingly popular across the world. Many, if not all, of the drinks at Mezcalita, Pompa, and Lyla have tequila as a foundation component.

“Tequila, being Agave-based and originating in Mexico, naturally compliments the food. Its appeal originates from two factors: many people wrongly assume it is low in calories and has a very neutral flavor profile. Furthermore, much as single malt in Scotland is prized for its smoothness, tequila and gin, both originating in tropical places, tend to complement our bodies and lifestyles,” Singh explains.Despite its popularity, the usage of cactus, which is essential to Mexican cuisine, has yet to become widespread in our local eating scene.

Chef Benitez of Mezcalita notes, “While cactus is a mainstay in Mexican cuisine and much liked, it can be an acquired taste for some. Despite its popularity in Mexico,It is not a widely used substance across the world.” He also mentions that the cactus is sensitive and requires careful care.Pompa’s difficulty stems from a shortage of supplies. “I intended to include it into a salad, but the supply chain for cactus appears to be extremely tough. It’s unexpected because we grow a lot of cactus in India, especially in the north-west,” adds Keenan, who is actively looking for suppliers and plans to bring cactus recipes in the future.